Since the double ended screws are typically for attaching two wood surfaces together, start the screw in one of the pilot holes (just enough to stay put). Then align the other pilot hole and spin one or both pieces of wood together.
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For example, if this is the below end cap on a wood pole, you'd put the screw on the end of the pole so that it doesn't fall and then spin the cap on until the screw is embedded in both surfaces and they are tight together. The only time you need to use pliers on the center piece is if you need to remove the screw.
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Locking two nuts together was one of the first things I learned about as a kid in my dad's shop. And there were usually two situations where I would use it. The most common was not for compression. For example, any situation where movement was wanted, but kept to a specific tolerance, like say the handle on my wagon. I could have it tight enough to stay vertical and not fall down or loose enough that it would. We had many types of lock washers of all sizes in our shop but they never were as capable of maintaining a specific tolerance as a double nut assembly. Trial and error taught that certain flat washers would extend the life of the connection and a little drop of oil could provide added performance satisfaction. We did have a few of those lock nuts that were dimpled or slightly misshaped to produce friction immediately as it was started on the thread but I preferred what seemed the quicker two nut solution. The other application of the two nut solution would be any place you could have a wide variety of dynamic loading like the U-bolts on a axil connection to the leaf springs or the spring's shackle's themselves, they were a place we could have added an extra nut to a questionable friction nut or just did the double up with two regular ones. But it was always in consideration of a dynamic load and not specific to just a static, compression or tension force/load.
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