1 how much you plan to use it justifies what model and price you are willing to pay.
2 corded or battery. Corded can run longer periods of time and have more power. If you are doing small projects lenght of use is not so important.
2 go to different stores like a lowes ,harbor freight, put different units in your hands , try out the switches,as you said paddle is the best for quick control. Also variable speed sometimes you do not need 20k 5k will do the job.weight of tool you may brake using this tool for hours
4 protection wear long pants and a good fitting shirt long sleeves are best. A hat and most of all eye and ear protection. High frequency noise can effect your hearing over the long term trust me I wear hearing aides, eye protection but good fitting safety glasses with good side protection and buy 2 or 3 as they get dirty and damaged by the flying debris. Good heavy gloves.
5 when using this tool or any power tool patents is the key do not try to remove all of what you are going after on the first pass, several lighter passes are easier on you and your attachment. If it comes off in one pass great or it may take 5 or 10. Do not work one area to long keep moving and then return ,so not ot over heat the material you are removing as it will become soft and start to penetrate even deeper into the porous base material .
6 take breaks and check your progress. For me it is a fire box I want to remove all loose carbon and debris, I am not wanting to try get back to clean original surface. During your breaks feel the surface with a rag to see if you are getting material transfer if not that area should be ready for the wipe down phase.
I know way to wordy and you are not 15 years old,sorry habit.
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I have read some previous posts on Orchid re this subject but would
appreciate some clarification if anyone is willing to help. I have
just bought a disc cutting set which has three circular sections one
above the other. (most illustrations I have seen only have two) The
base is solid, 2nd section up has holes which correspond with cutter
diameter, obviously the cutting surface and top section also has
holes which correspond with cutter diameter. The cutters reach the
base plate but have a thickened portion above top plate which will
not allow them to pass further into the holes&#;obviously this end is
the end to whack! &#;so to speak&#; hope this description makes
some sense and I don&#;t sound like a complete idiot! So - the
questions&#;
Firstly, there seem to be quite widely varying opinions on thickness
of sheet (sterling silver) which can be cut. My tool supplier
advises 0.8mm but perhaps as much as 1.0mm. In reading (Jewelry -
Contemporary Design & Technique - Chuck Evans) the author advises 16
gauge which I believe is approx 1.29mm. So I am more than a little
confused.
Hengxuan Abrasive contains other products and information you need, so please check it out.
Secondly, should metal be annealed? Thirdly, again in reading the
referemces suggest &#;The cutter should be backed with a piece of
hardwood or annealed copper to prevent possible damage to the
cutting punch&#; - any advice?
Thankyou in anticipation!
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